wood panelling, Sunday lunch
In between
Roughly: after the summer, before the snow. And again in spring.
Half the village is on holiday, the larches are turning and the locals finally have the place to themselves. It is the quietest, cheapest and, frankly, the nicest time to be here — as long as you like walking and don't need anything to be open on a Tuesday.
Half the village is on holiday and the larches are turning. Walk, eat early, and don't expect anything open on a Tuesday.
Eat & drink
Most open, shorter hoursAll eat & drink →All →PORTRAIT — window seat, nut tart, rain
Verdict: go●○○○
Konditorei Example
The nut tart is honest. So is the coffee, sadly. Best window seat in the village.
LANDSCAPE — candlelit Stube, low beams, venison on the pass
Verdict: go●●●○
Restaurant Example
Order the venison. Ask for the corner table. Pretend you found it yourself.
Do
Walking weather, mostlyAll things to do →All →gold larches, path
steam, wooden loungers
Verdict: go, if●●○○
Spa Example
If it is rainingBook the 4pm slot; the school groups leave at a quarter to.
barrier tape, rocks
Verdict: skipFree
Example Gorge Path
Closed for repairs more often than not. Check, then probably don't.
Stay
About half are openAll places to stay →All →lit window, dusk
chalet at dusk, lit windows
Verdict: go, if●●●●
Chalet Example
If you are six or morePlain outside, glorious inside. Bring slippers.
Beyond Klosters
Good for grey daysAll day trips →All →arcaded street, rain
Verdict: goTrain
Example Valley Town
Forty minutes by train. Arcades, a proper bookshop and lunch that isn't rösti.
still lake, one rowing boat
Après-ski
Mostly asleep until DecemberAll après-ski →All →small wooden bar, candle, two glasses of red
Verdict: go●●○○
Stübli Bar Example
Twelve seats, a good Pinot and no DJ. The après for people who've stopped pretending.
Practicalities for In between: reduced bus timetable, which lifts reopen first, where to buy a pass early.
Read →