PORTRAIT — window seat, nut tart, rain
Verdict: go●○○○
Konditorei Example
The nut tart is honest. So is the coffee, sadly. Best window seat in the village.
Winter
Roughly: from the first proper snow to Easter.
The village at full tilt: lifts, huts, bars and a waiting list for every good table. Get up early, lunch long, book everything, and you'll have the best of it without the queues.
Lifts, huts and a waiting list for every good table. Get up early and book everything.
Eat & drink
Book everythingAll eat & drink →All →LANDSCAPE — candlelit Stube, low beams, venison on the pass
Verdict: go●●●○
Restaurant Example
Order the venison. Ask for the corner table. Pretend you found it yourself.
counter, croissants, morning
Do
Ski, sledge, soakAll things to do →All →wide empty piste, north-facing, morning shadow
sledge track through snowy forest, late afternoon
Verdict: go●○○○
Example Sledge Run
The best 25 minutes in the valley. Faster than skiing, funnier, nobody judges.
steam, wooden loungers
Verdict: go, if●●○○
Spa Example
If it is rainingBook the 4pm slot; the school groups leave at a quarter to.
Stay
Book early, pay moreAll places to stay →All →lit window, dusk
chalet at dusk, lit windows
Verdict: go, if●●●●
Chalet Example
If you are six or morePlain outside, glorious inside. Bring slippers.
grand facade, flags, empty terrace
Verdict: skip●●●●
Grand Hotel Example
Five stars, four of them for the lobby. The rooms haven't heard about the renovation.
Beyond Klosters
For the day the cloud sits downAll day trips →All →arcaded street, rain
Verdict: goTrain
Example Valley Town
Forty minutes by train. Arcades, a proper bookshop and lunch that isn't rösti.
Après-ski
Choose carefullyAll après-ski →All →small wooden bar, candle, two glasses of red
Verdict: go●●○○
Stübli Bar Example
Twelve seats, a good Pinot and no DJ. The après for people who've stopped pretending.
umbrella bar at the bottom of the run, late sun
Verdict: go, if●●○○
Schirmbar Example
If you're still in your ski bootsOne drink in the last of the sun, then home before the music gets ideas.
PHONE PHOTO — crowded bar, blur
Practicalities for Winter: lift passes, ski hire without queueing, and which trains to avoid on Saturdays.
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